Ginkakuji's Autumn Splendor: A Personal Encounter

Autumnal Radiance at Ginkakuji (銀閣寺; YouTube link)

 

Situated at the terminus of the Philosopher’s Path, also known as “Along the Old Canal,” the Ginkakuji Temple, marks the end of the trail that originates from Nanzenji Temple. The pavilion’s name, which translates to Silver Pavilion (銀閣寺⭐⭐), sets it apart from the Kinkakuji or Golden Pavilion (金閣寺), despite the Silver Pavilion’s design being a homage to the latter.

Ginkakuji unfolds as you walk a circular path around its grounds. First, you'll encounter the Silver Pavilion itself, followed by several other temple buildings. As you continue, a beautiful moss garden will greet you, and finally, a unique dry sand garden will come into view. Throughout this calming journey, you'll be rewarded with captivating views of the gardens, the temple structures, and even a glimpse of Kyoto City itself.

Ginkakuji Temple 

Instead of taking the Philosopher's Path, I explored a different route to Ginkakuji Temple on November 28th, 2016. Arriving at Demachiyanagi Station (出町柳駅), I embarked on a walk eastward along Imadegawa Dori. The journey offered a chance to visit Kyoto University and Yoshida Hill before reaching the serene Ginkakuji Temple.

Two-Stored Silver Pavilion

Sand Garden

Waterfall

Bridge View

Temple Compound Viewed from Hillside

Kyoto City View

Moss Garden Covered with Leaves

References

1. Kyoto Walks
2. Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion)
3. Kyoto Travel—Philosopher's Path (Along the Old Canal)
4. Japan Travel: Eating in Nara (奈良)
5. Japan: Temple Lodging at Mount Koya (or Koyasan 高野山)
6. Temple Lodging in Koyasan—Personal Experience
7. Visiting Arashiyama (嵐山) in Kyoto—Personal Experience
8. Visiting Ohara in Kyoto—Personal Experience
9. Visiting Nigatsudo Hall (二月堂) in Nara—Personal Experience
10. Visiting Yoshiki-en Garden (吉城園 / よしきえん) in Nara—Personal Experience
11. Visiting Fushimi Inari Taisha (伏見稲荷大社)—Personal Experience 
12. Travel: How to Ride a Train in Japan
13. Japan Travel — How to Ride a Bus in Kyoto Area

Visiting Gion District and Kiyomizudera Temple in Kyoto—Personal Experience

Visiting Gion District and Kiyomizudera Temple in Kyoto (YouTube link)

Based on Japan National Tourism Organization's (JNTO) publication—Kyoto Walks, it says that, in Kyoto, the best surprises are reserved for those who are willing to walk. Among those recommended routes, it includes

• Higashiyama Area  

On 12/01/2016, I have visited Higashiyama Area.  In this article, I'll focus mainly on three points of interest in the order of my visit on that day:

• Gion (祇園) ⭐
• Sannenzaka (三年坂)/ninenzaka (二年坂) shops ⭐
• Kiyomizudera (清水寺) ⭐⭐⭐

Gion District

Gion district is located around Shijo Avenue between Yasaka Shrine in the east and the Kamo River in the west.  It is famous for traditional Geisha entertainment, which is probably the largest area in Japan which is associated with this form of entertainment.  It is filled with shops, restaurants and tea houses (茶屋 ).

Geisha is the general term.  In Kyoto, it is known as Geiko and Maiko (geiko apprentices).  Geiko and Maiko are part of Kyoto tea houses' tradition of hospitality.  You can view this video:

• Geiko and Maiko -- The Geisha of Kyoto (video) 

for more information.

In below photos, you can see some girls dressed in Geisha's clothes. They are just tourists.  Those clothes can be rent in shops for around ¥3,000.  In the trip to Higashiyama Area, I have seen girls dressed like Geisha and in groups of two or three.  They seem to have fun to take pictures with views and each other.

Yasaka Pagoda

Ninenzaka (二年坂)/Sannenzaka (三年坂) Shops 

In direct translation, Ninenzaka means 'two year hill' and Sannenzaka means 'three year hill'. They are slopes connected to several shrines and temples in that area.  The path is famous for its souvenir shops, tea shops, and restaurants.  Kiyomizuzaka is super-crowded most of the time, but Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka are less so on regular weekdays.

Kiyomizudera (清水寺)

Kiyomizudera temple is part of the Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto (Kyoto, Uji and Otsu Cities) UNESCO World Heritage site.^[3] It was also one of 20 finalists for the New7Wonders of the World.

On the day of my visit, it was night time.  The light was lit up around 5:30 pm.  

References

1. Kyoto Walks
2. Begin Japanology Geiko and Maiko - YouTube(video)
3. Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto (Kyoto, Uji and Otsu Cities)
4. Japan Travel: Eating in Nara (奈良) (Travel for a Purpose)
5. Japan: Temple Lodging at Mount Koya (or Koyasan 高野山) (Travel for a Purpose)
6. Temple Lodging in Koyasan—Personal Experience (Travel for a Purpose)
7. Visiting Arashiyama (嵐山) in Kyoto—Personal Experience  (Travel for a Purpose)
8. Visiting Ohara in Kyoto—Personal Experience  (Travel for a Purpose)
9. Visiting Nigatsudo Hall (二月堂) in Nara—Personal Experience  (Travel for a Purpose)
10. Visiting Yoshiki-en Garden (吉城園 / よしきえん) in Nara—Personal Experience  (Travel for a Purpose)
11. Visiting Fushimi Inari Taisha (伏見稲荷大社)—Personal Experience  (Travel for a Purpose)

Hasedera (長谷寺): A Hidden Gem Near Nara

Visiting Hasedera (長谷寺) near Nara (YouTube link)

Inspired by this video, I've decided to visit Hasedera (長谷寺⭐⭐) , one of Nara's famous flower temples. From the photos online, Hasedera looks even more stunning in springtime with its blooming flowers. But even in autumn, you can be rewarded with memorable views of the changing leaves, depending on the timing of your visit.

I visited Hasedera Temple on December 4, 2016, a rainy day. I had missed the peak autumn colors by about two weeks, but as the video title suggests, Hasedera offers tranquility and stunning views of its covered walkways, buildings, and Buddha statue, regardless of the season.

Stairs to the Main Hall (本堂)

Main Hall (本堂)

Nice Restaurant in Town Area

For travelers on the road, finding a lovely restaurant to rest and relax is a truly rewarding experience. Luckily, on the day of my visit to Hasedera Temple, I stumbled upon a beautiful restaurant in the nearby town area. I would say it was the most beautiful restaurant I had ever visited during my 12-day trip to Japan in December 2016.

Kneeling down on the tatami mats and surrounded by a stunning garden, I decided to reward myself with a local dish called にゅうめん (nyuumen).

Nyuumen is a type of somen noodles from Miwa, Japan. They are thin as a thread and white as snow. They are eaten with seasonal vegetables in both summer and winter. In summer, they are eaten cold, and in winter, they are eaten in warm broth.

My order also came with kaki no hazushi (かきの葉ずし or 柿の葉すし), which is made with rice seasoned with vinegar and topped with slices of salmon or salted mackerel. The mackerel used in this dish is prepared according to a special secret method, which is why kaki no hazushi is only available in Nara.

Finally, I ordered a Japanese sake to warm up on that cold rainy day. I fell in love with sake after tasting it for the first time on Koyasan.^[5,6] It has a sweet taste and a fragrant aroma, and best of all, it didn't give me a hangover the next day.

にゅうめん (nyuumen) and 柿の葉すし (かきの葉ずし / kaki no hazushi)

References

1. Nara: Tranquil temples and bountiful blooms (video)
• Sekko-ji temple (石光寺)
• Taima-dera (當麻寺)
• Chōgaku-ji Temple (長岳寺)
• Hase-dera Temple (総本山長谷寺)
2. Hase-dera (総本山長谷寺)
3. Hase-dera (TripAdvisor)
4. Japan Travel: Eating in Nara (奈良) (Travel for a Purpose)
5. Japan: Temple Lodging at Mount Koya (or Koyasan 高野山) (Travel for a Purpose)
6. Temple Lodging in Koyasan—Personal Experience (Travel for a Purpose)

My Experience Visiting Uji, a Hidden Gem Near Kyoto and Nara

Uji (宇治) ⭐is a charming town nestled between Nara and Kyoto, two of Japan's ancient capitals. It's known for its rich history, tea culture, and stunning autumn foliage. In December 2016, I made my first trip to Uji to see the autumn leaves and visit Byodoin Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In May 2023, I returned with my daughter to share this special place with her.

Visiting Uji River for Its Autumn Colors (YouTube link)

Uji River

Lining the riverbank, many teahouses and restaurants showcase Uji's famous tea and tea-themed foods. Visitors can try tea-flavored soba noodles, green tea ice cream, and other popular Uji tea treats while enjoying the view.

Nakamura Tokichi Byodo-in, a traditional Japanese tea house located on the banks of the Uji River, is a great place to enjoy matcha desserts and relax with a view. The second floor is especially popular, as it offers stunning views of the river and the surrounding mountains.

On the day of my initial visit, I first walked through the old town area towards Byodoin Temple. Then I crossed the bridge and walked along the north bank of the Uji River on a paved road. After reaching the suspension bridge, I turned around and walked along the south bank of the Uji River.

The photos below are shown in the same order of my visit.

Initial visit on December 3, 2016

Suspension Bridge (Amagase Bridge or 天ヶ瀬橋)

Second Visit on 05/10/2023

The bridge was closed due to the raging waters

Instagram Friends

When you travel alone, you learn new things and meet new people every day. While walking along the Uji River, I met three travelers—two from Canada and one from Japan. How did they know each other? Instagram.

Instagram is what connected them. They got to know each other by admiring each other's photos. When the Canadians decided to visit Kyoto, they reached out to their Japanese friend to see if they could show them around. Their friend happily agreed, and they met up in Uji that same day.

Reference

1. Japan Travel: Visiting Uji for Its History and Tea
2. Kyoto and Nara: Rough Guides Snapshot Japan
3. Visiting Arashiyama (嵐山) in Kyoto—Personal Experience
4. Visiting Ohara in Kyoto—Personal Experience
5. Visiting Nigatsudo Hall (二月堂) in Nara—Personal Experience
6. Visiting Yoshiki-en Garden (吉城園 / よしきえん) in Nara—Personal Experience
7. Visiting Fushimi Inari Taisha (伏見稲荷大社)—Personal Experience
8. Temple Lodging in Koyasan—Personal Experience
9. A Solo Trip Can Be A Disaster If You Forget These 7 Rules

A Stroll Through Arashiyama's Enchanting Bamboo Forest and Beyond: A Personal Journey

Gioji Temple

Based on Japan National Tourism Organization's (JNTO) publication—Kyoto Walks, it says that, in Kyoto, the best surprises are reserved for those who are willing to walk. Among those recommended routes, it includes

• Arashiyama Area ⭐⭐

On 11/29/2016, I have visited Arashiyama (嵐山) and mainly in Sagano Area.

Togetsukyo Bridge

The Togetsukyo Bridge (lit. "Moon Crossing Bridge") is Arashiyama's most iconic landmark. The bridge is notable for its views of cherry blossoms in a riverside park and autumn colors on the slopes of Arashiyama.

When I visited, the autumn colors on the forested mountainside were not as brilliant as I had hoped. I must have missed the peak autumn colors by a week or two.

Video 1.  Visiting Arashiyama (嵐山) in Kyoto (YouTube link)

Sagano Area

The area north of the Togetsukyo Bridge (see above map; click to enlarge) is also known as Sagano, which encloses all points of interest described below.

Besides walking, another way to travel around the Sagano area is by rental bicycle, which are available for around 1000 yen near the train stations. Cycling through rural residential areas and past fields while traveling between temples can be a more relaxed and convenient way to enjoy the area.

However, on that day, I have chosen my favorite way of visit—walking. Based on the route I have taken, the points of interest are also illustrated in the same order.

Bamboo Forest

The walking paths that cut through the bamboo groves make for a nice walk or bicycle ride. To visit it, you should try to arrive early in the morning to beat the crowd.

Jojakkoji Temple (常寂光寺)

This mountainside temple is notable for its attractive buildings and gates. Maple trees and moss are located just beside the paths and stairs that lead across the temple grounds. From a number of spots, visitors can also enjoy views over Kyoto.

Gioji Temple (祇王寺)

On the way to Gioji Temple, I have run into an attractive pottery shop (see picture below) on the roadside.

Gioji Temple is very small and nestled deeper into the mountainside. It is known for its moss garden that is punctuated with tall maple trees. The temple's entrance gate and small main hall have thatched roofs. The latter has an attractive round window looking into the gardens.

Adashino Nenbutsu-ji (化野念仏寺)

Adashino Nenbutsuji is located at the end of the Saga-Toriimoto Preserved Street. The temple was founded in the early 9th century when the famous monk Kobo Daishi (弘法大師) placed stone statues for the souls of the dead here.

Today, the temple grounds are covered by hundreds of such stone statues. In the back of the temple, a short path leads through a bamboo forest which looks similar to the over-hyped Bamboo Forest while has a much smaller crowd.

Final Words

Adashino Nenbutsuji is the farthest location I have reached on that day. Before heading back to the train station, I have spotted an old-styled Japanese restaurant with a nice garden in the preserved town area (see photo below) and have enjoyed a nice meal over there.

On the return trip, I have seen some Japanese youngsters hooking up lanterns on the roadside to the power line. I guess Arashiyama should look more attractive with lit lanterns in the evening. However, at that moment, a huge crowd was already gathered around me and created a commotion. From the corner of my eye, I have found there was a queue of people walking through the Bamboo Forest. To restore my peace of mind, I walked as fast as possible to escape the crowds.

As you may have noticed, there are some points of interest in the Sagano Area that I've skipped on that day:

• Sagano Scenic Railway (嵯峨野観光鉄道, also known as the Sagano Romantic Train or Sagano Torokko)
• Nisonin temple
• Tenryuji Temple

References

1. Kyoto Walks (JNTO)
2. Arashiyama (嵐山) Full Day
3. Arashiyama and Sagano
4. Bamboo forest
5. Benefits of Kansai Thru Pass (2 days / 3 days)
• Discounts at Ryoanji Temple, Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama, etc.
6. Arashiyama in Kyoto Tour! - Video Japan Guide (video)
7. Taking a bus in Kyoto
8. 20 Recommended Power Spots in Kyoto
9. Monkey Park (video)
10. Visiting Ohara in Kyoto—Personal Experience
11. Visiting Nigatsudo Hall (二月堂) in Nara—Personal Experience
12. Visiting Yoshiki-en Garden (吉城園 / よしきえん) in Nara—Personal Experience
13. Visiting Fushimi Inari Taisha (伏見稲荷大社)—Personal Experience
14. Temple Lodging in Koyasan—Personal Experience
15. Visting Uji (宇治) near Kyoto and Nara—Personal Experience
16. Travel: How to Ride a Train in Japan (Travel for a Purpose)
17. Japan Travel — How to Ride a Bus in Kyoto Area (Travel for a Purpose)
18. A Solo Trip Can Be A Disaster If You Forget These 7 Rules