Japan’s Island of the Gods: 48 Hours in Miyajima (YouTube link)
Itsukushima is a small island in Hiroshima Bay, famous for its UNESCO World Heritage site, the Itsukushima Shrine 嚴島神社, with its iconic "floating" torii gate that appears to hover over the water at high tide.
Itsukushima is a must-see for any visitor to Japan. Its unique beauty and cultural significance make it an unforgettable experience.
Here's why:
Travelers often praise:
- The serene atmosphere
- The opportunity to experience something truly unique
Itsukushima Shrine:
- Origins trace back to the 6th century
- Current structure from the 12th century
- A masterpiece of Heian-period architecture
Additional attractions:
- Mount Misen for hiking with panoramic views
- A laid-back vibe, contrasting with busy cities like Hiroshima (a short ferry ride away)
Considerations:
- Crowds can swell during peak seasons:
- Cherry blossom time (late March to early April)
- Autumn foliage (November)
- Tide impacts the torii gate’s “floating” effect:
- Low tide leaves it grounded in mud
- Timing is key for the full experience
Ideal for photography or history buffs:
- Plan visits around high tide schedules
Compact destination:
- Most highlights doable in a day
- Overnight stays offer a quieter, after-hours charm
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The World-Famous Floating Torii Gate |
One-Day Miyajima Trip via the JR West Miyajima Ferry
Morning: Ferry to Miyajima and Shrine
9:00 AM - Board JR West Miyajima Ferry at Miyajimaguchi- Start at the Miyajimaguchi ferry terminal. The JR West Miyajima Ferry runs frequently (every 15-30 minutes during peak hours), with service from 6:25 AM. Take the 9:00 AM or 9:15 AM ferry—10 minutes across Hiroshima Bay. If you’ve got a JR Pass, it’s free; otherwise, ¥200 one way. Sit on the right side facing forward for a prime torii gate preview.
- You’re on the island! Deer will eye your bags—keep food tucked away. It’s a 10-minute walk to Itsukushima Shrine, so head straight there.
- Morning often aligns with low tide (check tide tables). On March 23, 2024, low tide likely hit around 8-10 AM (based on Hiroshima Bay cycles).
- Entry: ¥300. Walk the seabed to the “floating” torii gate—barnacles and mud make it raw and real (no coin-tossing; it’s discouraged). The shrine’s 12th-century planks and halls feel timeless—UNESCO earned.
- Hit this lively street near the pier. Grab a grilled oyster (¥300-500) or momiji manju (¥100-150)—the maple pastries might have a spring twist. Shops buzz more on a Sunday; snag a wooden rice scoop as a keepsake.
Midday: Mount Misen Adventure
11:15 AM - Miyajima Ropeway to Mount Misen
- Walk 15 minutes to Momijidani Station (signs guide you past the shrine). Ride the ropeway (¥1,100 one-way, ¥2,000 round-trip). The 20-minute ascent ends at Shishi-iwa Observatory—great views already. Hike 30 minutes to the 535-meter summit—steep but rewarding, with early cherry blossoms possibly dotting the lower trails. Wear decent shoes.
1:00 PM - Lunch with a View
- Pack a bento from Miyajimaguchi (or buy one on Omotesando) and eat at the summit—Seto Inland Sea panoramas pair perfectly with spring air. If you’d rather dine below, descend by 12:45 PM and visit Fujitaya for anago-meshi (eel rice, ¥2,000-3,000)—Sunday might need a reservation.
Afternoon: Temples and Tide Shift
2:15 PM - Daisho-in Temple
- Back on ground level, walk 10 minutes to this peaceful Buddhist temple at Misen’s base. Founded in 806, it’s less crowded—spin the prayer wheels and admire the 500 unique Buddha statues, some with knitted hats. Early spring greenery adds a fresh touch.
3:15 PM - Senjokaku Pavilion and Pagoda
- Five minutes from the shrine, explore this open hall (free) and the 1407 Five-Story Pagoda—its red contrasts nicely with budding trees. A quick, scenic stop.
3:45 PM - High Tide Torii Check
- By late afternoon, the tide’s rising (high tide likely ~3-5 PM—verify for March 23, 2025). Revisit the torii from the shore—it’s starting to “float.” The water’s creep transforms the morning’s mudflat into a reflective scene.
Evening: Nighttime Viewing
5:00 PM - Sunset and Dinner
- Sunset’s around 6:20 PM on March 23, 2025—watch it near the shrine, framing the torii. Then, dine at Miyajima Grand Hotel Arimoto (3-minute walk) for a kaiseki meal with local seafood (¥5,000-10,000, book ahead for Sunday).
6:30 PM - Illuminated Torii Viewing
- After sunset, the torii and shrine glow until ~11:00 PM. With high tide (hopefully) peaking, it “floats” under the lights—stunning and serene, especially as Sunday crowds thin out. Shoreline or pier gives the best angles; bring a camera with low-light prowess.
8:00 PM - Final Stroll and Ferry Back
- Wander Omotesando one last time—Sunday evening keeps some shops open, and the island quiets down. Head to the pier for your return. The JR West Miyajima Ferry runs until 10:00 PM from Miyajima—catch the 8:15 PM or 8:45 PM (frequency drops after 7:00 PM).
8:15 PM - Ferry to Miyajimaguchi
- Ten minutes back, with the illuminated coast as your farewell.
8:30 PM - Arrive at Miyajimaguchi
- Back at the terminal—ready for your next step.
Logistics and Tips
- Ferry Time: ~20 minutes round-trip. ¥400 total without JR Pass.
- Cost: Ferry (¥400), shrine (¥300), ropeway (¥2,000), food/souvenirs (~¥3,000-7,000)—¥5,700-10,000 total.
- Tide Timing: Low AM, high PM (estimated; check 2025 Hiroshima tide charts). Night viewing’s best at high tide.
- Ferry Schedule: 6:25 AM first from Miyajimaguchi, 10:00 PM last from Miyajima. Confirm at jr-miyajimaferry.co.jp closer to 2025.
- Sunday Spring Vibe: Early cherry blossoms (pre-peak), mild weather, moderate crowds (less intense than Saturday).
- Gear: Light jacket, comfy shoes, camera, cash (cards not always accepted)
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